Sunday, June 26, 2011

Canyon Creek East and Missouri River Canyon

When I decided to build a business, Moto-Montana Outfitters, I had no idea how much time it would take getting even a little project off the ground. For the past three weeks I've had my head buried in Insurance, Website content, purchasing bikes, merchandising... the business part of the venture. I'd almost forgotten about the riding part - the reason I started this enterprise to begin with. This week I was able to do some saddle-time recon.

After what seemed to be two months of solid rain, sunny days now dominate the weather. The Sun mixed with water makes everything fresh; I can't remember a greener spring. What better place to start a ride than the Canyon Creek Store, but this time head east:

Heading east following the Little Prickly Pear Creek from the Canyon Creek Store, Duffy Lane sprints across the flats, crosses a BNSF spur line and junctions with Chevallier Dr or Sieben Canyon Rd. The road, creek and railroad weave together through the canyon on its way to Wolf Creek and the Missouri River below the Holter Lake Dam. Sieben Canyon is an enjoyable ride with many places to pull off to camp, fish or picnic; locals bring their campers and motorbikes to enjoy the countryside for the weekend. The road is fairly short and ends near the Sieben Ranch at Interstate 15. I use this road as a short cut to avoid driving through Helena if I plan a ride north to Augusta or Great Falls. However, the best is yet to come.

The Bungalow B&B
To continue into the canyon, hop on I-15 North for a short leg and exit onto Recreation Road. This nice bit of tarmac was the main thoroughfare through this part of the canyon until I-15 was built and now joins the weave with the interstate, creek and railroad with more opportunities to stop and toss a line in to catch a fish. Shortly, you arrive at Wolf Creek, home to the Frenchman and Oasis Bar and a handful of fishing guides. Bed down at the Bungalow B&B, a quiet country home completed in 1913 for a local businessman; If you want something different, try the 7R Guest Ranch, located off of Hwy 434 on little Wolf Creek road. They have places to camp for motorcyclists or comfortable hotel rooms to get a nice evenings rest. The restaurant has a full bar, dance floor, and Karaoke for those crooning bikers.

Holter Lake
From Wolf Creek, the Recreation Road continues to follow the Missouri River, northeast towards Great Falls, past Holter Lake and near the fishing village of Craig; this area of Montana flourishes during this time of year as Anglers flock into the canyon with drift boats and rafts for some of the best fishing around. The beauty of this canyon is not only in waters that flow though it, but in the steep basaltic rock faces that guide the river into the plains. Even on cold, wet days the canyon seems to emit a mystical quality. Keep on the lookout for Bighorn Sheep traversing the cliffs above.

The Hardy Bridge
As the canyon narrows, the Hardy Bridge spans the Missouri which was made famous by the Brian De Palma Film, The Untouchables. Just past the bridge is the Missouri Inn, a great place to relax and have lunch. Try their hand breaded Fish and Chips. Yum!

Tower Rock State Park

At the northern entrance of the canyon is Tower Rock State Park, this was where Lewis and Clark first encountered the mountains for which they would have to cross in 1805. Retrace Lewis's steps up to the top of Tower Rock and look out to the plains; imagine the trepidation leaving the prairie that had been their home for over a year and entering the treacherous mountains beyond. 

Recreation Road makes a great "out and back" ride from Helena, backtracking through the canyon gives you a second chance to see its beauty from another perspective. As the afternoon sun dips below the ridges, the canyon colors and shadows contrast with one another and makes for spectacular photography. If you ride through Montana, be sure to put this route on your agenda.

Friday, June 10, 2011

So good to be home!

I don't know about you, but it always takes a couple weeks to recover from a motorcycle trip, a bittersweet melancholy comes over me for those days. I'm tired, but rejuvenated; excited, but bored. All those hours spent on seemingly endless ribbins of tarmac must put a spell on a rider; igniting a wanderlust inside, but yearning to be in their own warm bed every night. Yes, I am happy to be home, yet I miss "the road". Sipping a hearty cup of black coffee, I begin to reflect on a safe trip completed...

I recall hastily beginning my trip to take advantage of good weather, but riding through the worst; pushing through the snow and slush to find warmth in 40 degree temperatures; feeling a chill at the end of the day in Idaho Falls, that only a beer, steak and hot shower could cure. 

Portneuf Valley Brewing Co.
I remember waking up, hoping for warmer weather, but freezing my fingers off riding the windy Highway 91 towards Pocatello; while there, finding the Chopstick Cafe for an early lunch and searching out the only Brewery in town, squeezing a growler of Grog in the panniers; continuing on Highway 91 through the lush farms around Preston, Idaho and thinking Logan, UT must be paradise.

Looking back on the four, fun days spent with friends in Salt Lake, I had my first Guzzi's Burger (not to be my last), had a surprisingly good time at a piano bar, and had my helmet autographed by my long time racing hero. I just wished the weather would have been better.

Near Malad City, Idaho
Tuesday turned out to be the best weather day of the trip and the longest;  test drove a R1150GS on my way back through Pocatello; was nearly lulled to sleep by the flat, straight stretches of road on the way to Arco and felt a desire to stop and set up permanent camp in MacKay, Idaho. Beautiful!

Hwy 93, near Borah Peak
 I remember how beautiful the Salmon River canyon was, but too tired to really enjoy the scenery, concentrating instead on the road before me; finding Bertram's Brewery in Salmon, ID and enjoying their IPA and the biggest Reuben Sandwich outside of Montana and being too pooped to write a blog.
Lost Trail Pass
I recall my excitement the next morning, looking forward to my short ride into Montana; stopping at every Lewis and Clark Trail marker, wondering if they'd had the same anticipation to reach the mountain pass above; shivering as the temperature dropped rapidly and snow threatened to fall on me once again; and my relief to see the familiar sign proclaiming the boarder of the State I love so much.
Welcome to Montana!
A few days have passed since returning from my road trip. The exhaustion and boredom have disappeared leaving only the rejuvenated feelings of a trip safely completed. Yet the wanderlust still smolders within and soon I will be off on another adventure. This time I'll stay home... for etched in my mind is the big blue boarder sign: Welcome to Montana! So good to be home!