Never Pass Gas

I've been attending the World Superbike Races in Salt Lake City for the past three years. Each year I planned on riding my motorbike to the event, but each year some unfortunate circumstance prevented me from doing so; two years ago I had a work conflict, last year the weather. A good friend had ridden his Moto Guzzi twice, so this year I was determined to take the journey on two wheels, come hell or high water.

The weather in Montana never cooperates on Memorial Day; I cannot recall a sunny holiday weekend in ten years.  The weather forecast predicted rain for the entire corridor from Helena to Salt Lake, but improving daily.  Yesterday, the sun shone in Helena and I decided to hastily pack my gear and start my journey early while the weather was improving. So off I went without a plan, to see how far I could get....

Not one for taking the interstates, I stuck to two lane roads; Hwy 69 from Boulder, Hwy 359 from Cardwell and US 287 through Ennis to near Quake Lake. The ride was cool and windy but manageable; the bikes temperature gauge read 48 degrees. Having made it to Ennis without getting wet by squeezing between storms, I thought my luck was running good.  I took a quick break to stretch my legs and check phone messages. The fuel gauge looked full and so continued on.

"Never pass gas" is an old biker mantra, I didn't take heed today. Here I was at the junction of Hwy 287 and MT 87, cold, wet and snow was falling hard, better yet my fuel light was just about to indicate reserve. The weather had deteriorated fast since leaving Ennis and no gas stations exist in between. Turning around was not possible and going to West Yellowstone, where it was surely snowing harder, was out of the question. Nothing to do but press on into Idaho and pray for the best.

Hwy 87 is a short stretch of road, but today it seemed like an eternity. Snowing even harder now, the bikes heated grips couldn't keep my hands warm, snow caked my visor and this little yellow light was flashing in my face reminding me of the gas station in Ennis. The Road was filled with vacation homes and RV parks but no gas stations. Where do these people get their gas?! Is that a highway junction I see ahead through the snow?

Turning west on US Hwy 20 made me feel a little better, and elated when a few yards down the road was a GAS STATION! Riding through the slushy parking lot, I parked next to a pump and immediately went in side to warm up.
"You weren't expecting this, were ya?" was the first thing out of the attendants mouth.
"Nope." with a shiver in my voice.
"Don't Worry, you're not the only biker through here today. The weather gets better once you get off the mountain." she said.

After fueling up the snow covered bike, I pressed on through the snow and slush for another 30 miles, wiping the fog and snow from my visor, and impatiently waiting for the weather to break. The Targhee National Forest must be beautiful to ride through, but today was I concerned more with cold hands and wet roads. Then through the trees I could see sunlight and a road sign - 6% grade ahead. I was getting off this mountain to warmer temps!

The decent into the valley below was a relief, I never thought 38 degrees could feel so good on the hands. Eventually, the temperature rose to 50 when I hit the valley floor and the snow that caked my bike melted away. Feeling rejuvenated, I pressed on to Idaho Falls where a nice warm hotel room, hot shower and a cold beer awaited. 

Next stop Salt Lake City by back roads and....  no passing gas.


 

Along the Blackfoot River

Interstates are a necessary evil. Here in the fourth largest State in the Union, to get anywhere fast you need the Interstates. To the visitor, our Montana interstate highways must seem deserted in comparison to other regions and some might think it's a little scary. Our Interstates have some spectacular scenery, but to the adventuresome motorcycle traveler offer little insight to Montana life and what lays beyond the ridge lines of pine and sage.

This weekend I made a quick trip to Missoula from Helena. Rain and thunderstorms were forecast yet the temperature was staying warm enough to enjoy a ride. A late departure time required use of the interstate to arrive in Missoula before Big Sky BMW closed for the weekend, but I planned a return trip that would take me off the beaten path into the forests and towns near the Blackfoot River. I jumped on the bike despite the bleak meteorological outlook.. and so glad I did.

Expecting poor weather and a wet ride home, Sunday welcomed me with near perfect conditions. After a hardy breakfast and a solid cup of coffee, I set forth towards Helena vowing not to touch an inch of Interstate, keeping only to two lane highways, frontage roads and as much dirt as possible. Entering the Blackfoot River Canyon near Bonner on Hwy 200 is always a welcome site; smooth and sweeping curves hug the river and walls of towering Ponderosa Pine trees. This mornings humid air didn't sting the eyes, so I opened the visor to get a whiff of forest air.  The Blackfoot River is one of the finest trout streams in the world, but its also a popular tubing river for the residents of Missoula in search of relief from the summer sun. The canyon opens up into a wide valley near Potomac and it is here that I can see billowing clouds forming above the Continental Divide; like mountains themselves, they are the first sign of storms ahead. Will I get soaked?

First stop is the ghost town of Garnet. The last time I visited was nearly 10 years ago, so what a great opportunity to rediscover and explore this treasure. The road to Garnet, called the Garnet Range Back Country Byway starts in the Lubrecht Experimental Forest which is used by the University of Montana Forestry Program. The road climbs steadily and can't help but notice how healthy the forest looks with hardly a trace of pine beetle infestation. The temperature quickly drops and the pavement turns to dirt and the views of Bob Marshall Widlerness come into view.

Bob Marshall Wilderness from Ghost Town Byway

Six Miles into the forest I am thwarted by two feet of snow covering the road; it's too early in the season to get to Garnet by motorbike. Knowing that further progress is prohibited, thoughts quickly shift to plan B and I start to retrace steps back to Hwy 200.

Denied!

Once again heading east on Hwy 200, the road intersects with Montana Hwy 83 at Clearwater Junction and continues on into the Kleinschmidt Flats near Ovando. Having only been to Trixies Saloon near the highway, I venture into town to see what's there and stop at the Blackfoot Commercial Co. & Inn for a cold drink. The BCC is owned by Howard and Peggy Fly and has a general store, hotel rooms, and  gasoline pumps. They can even repair a tire for ya. Across the town commons, right out of the movies, is the Stray Bullet Cafe, home to some good grub. I must come back here some weekend, have dinner and beers and get a room in this quiet little town.

Blackfoot Commercial Co & Inn

Noticing the growing storm clouds, I gather my gear and load up for home. I spent more time than expected in Ovando; its easy to do when chatting with locals and getting the scoop. Heading east again, Hwy 200 sweeps its way through the valley on its way to Lincoln. These upper parts of the Blackfoot River are the best for trout fishing, but none will be had today as the spring run off has swelled its banks and muddied its waters. At the yellow flashing light in the center of Lincoln, the road to Stemple Pass and the final leg of my days journey begins. Climbing up to the Pass, our forest looks dead. The pine beetle infestation brought havoc along the Continental Divide from Lincoln to Butte. Whole mountainsides are colored grey and copper. Amazing that such a small creature could do so much damage.

Stemple Pass Road

Dropping from Stemple Pass the sun came out to warm my decent into the Helena Valley. A storm was brewing to the south over MacDonald Pass and I could see the grey streaks of rain reaching towards the ground near the my house; the race was on! After a quick stop for a couple of packs of Kettle House Beers and I made it into the garage just as the droplets of rain tapped on the pavement. Popping open a beer, I reflected on the days trip and how by, paraphrasing Robert Frost, taking the road less traveled has made all the difference. So glad I did.

Little Prickly Pear near Canyon Creek.

I ride snowboards in the winter and motorcycles in the summer, so for me April is the worst month to live in Montana. It's the time when one riding season comes to an end as ski resorts close, and the other isn't quite ready to roll as the weather is too cold and blustery to enjoy being in the saddle of a motorbike. This year winter seemed to linger a little more, but now in mid May, spring is finally here.

I've spent these passed two weeks riding my favorite springtime roads around Canyon Creek, taking photos for and chatting with folks about the business I will open in July called Moto-Montana Outfitters. We will offer BMW motorcycles for rent and outfit them with the gear they need to enjoy Big Sky Country.

Canyon Creek is a small ranching community northwest of Helena along State Highway 279. The center piece is the Canyon Creek Store which dates back to the 1890's and is also the longest continuously running Post Office in Montana. The store offers gasoline, groceries and even a campground for travelers along what locals call "the Lincoln Road" and makes a great start or stop point; from here one can ride in any direction on literally hundreds of miles of dirt roads. Don't be shy, stop in and say "hi" to Myrna and Ron, some of the nicest folks around.

South Fork Prickly Pear

Heading west from Canyon Creek is Little Prickly Pear Road(LPPR); best ridden in mid May to early June and makes a great first ride of the season. From LPPR, you can ride north or south and venture into the National Forest. This leisurely road skirts ranches, emerald pastures and bursting creeks filled with run off from the snow capped Continental Divide seen in the distance. Small portions of the road can be soft, so use caution when riding heavily laden adventure bikes with the more street oriented dual-purpose tires.

Long Gulch Rd

Long Gulch Road is the first road that offshoots from LPPR, This north-south running gem climbs steadily through land management areas and homesteads until it reaches the living ghost town of Marysville. Once a booming mining town with thousands of inhabitants, now only a few residents and a restaurant remain; the Marysville House serves juicy rib-steaks and cold drinks and is a Montana original. Put it on your must see list...

Gravely Range Road heads north into the Gravely Range and runs into Canyon Creek-Gould Road which (going east) can take you back through open range to Hwy 279 north of Canyon Creek, or (going west) will wander through groves of Aspen trees to Stemple Pass Road.

Stemple Pass

Marsh Creek Road forks from Gravely Range Road about 1.5 miles from LPPR and climbs significantly to straddle the Continental Divide on its way to Stemple Pass. Along the road are several campsites and a look out tower atop Granite Butte where views of the Bob Marshall and Scapegoat Wildernesses are plenty. This road is popular for cross country skiers in the winter and is open for wheeled travel later in the season as snow drifts can loiter until June. Stemple Pass Road leads westerly into the town of Lincoln where fuel, lodging and spirits await the weary adventure traveler.

There are several other roads to explore like Lost Horse Creek Road but I'll save that one until a later post when the snow melts enough to reach the top of Mount Belmont. Until then, keep it up right and enjoy the  ride.

Greetings!

Welcome to Montana On Two Wheels! I invite you to tune in and enjoy my posts about riding motorbikes through the beautiful state of Montana. My hope is to wet your whistle about roads to ride, places to get great food and comfortable lodging, historical tid bits and stories about friendly folks. So, when your travels bring you into Montana, take your time, get off the beaten path and get to know this Last Best Place...