Wise River Rampage

My good friend called and wanted to be the first to ride with Moto-Montana Outfitters.

"What do you want to do; what do you want to see?" I asked.

"All I wanna see is a Ghost Town, the rest I leave to you." He replied.

His request was simple, but it became a difficult decision for me to make. Knowing how much Joel wanted to escape the sweltering heat of the Mid-West to ride under the Big Sky, finding the perfect course was important. I scouted out three or four possible routes and each time I thought to myself, "this is where I'm gonna take Joel." But I came to the conclusion that in Montana, anywhere we decide to go, adventure and good times will be had by all.

After a late arrival, a couple of beers and catching up, we caught some zzzz; summer mornings come quickly in Montana and we had a long day ahead. When the sun rose, Joel got his first glimpse of Montana in ten years. He complained that the "mountains were getting in the way of the scenery".  I took this sarcastic quip as a sign of his eagerness to get on the road; my sentiments exactly! So, we loaded up the bikes and headed West! 

First stop along Highway 12 was the overlook at MacDonald Pass; up there, Joel's Montana scenery would not be hindered by mountains. Instead he would be atop the Continental Divide looking east into the Helena Valley and west over the Little Blackfoot to the peaks of the Flint Creek Range. Joel did his best "Lewis and Clark" pose and said, "lets get some breakfast!" Right...! Next stop - The Avon Cafe!

Joel and his "Lewis & Clark" pose on MacDonald Pass

At the Avon Family Cafe we met a old Montana gentleman; he was interested in our BMW's and where we were going. I explained we were headed into the Pioneer Mountains and the Wise River.
"Oh, you'll like that... beautiful country." He said excitedly.
Being friendly I asked, "What are you doing this weekend?"
"I'm waiting for a friend, we're gonna ride ATV's..."
"How old ARE you?", noticing he was no spring chicken.
"I'm 82", he said proudly, "..in the fourth quarter of life. But my friends think I'm in overtime."
We all had a good laugh and parted ways. Something tells me he's gonna make it to double overtime.

After a great breakfast (try their biscuits and gravy) we continued our trek, heading towards Deer Lodge. Joel mentioned he wanted a milk shake, and made it our mission to find one soon. We took our first gravel road of the adventure, a short cut called Beck Hill Road; there Joel could get a better view of one of my favorite mountain ranges... The Flint Creek Range. As we rolled into Deer Lodge, I noticed the Yak Yak Cafe advertised "shakes" on their sign, so we had to stop. Walking through the door we were greeted by two exuberant young ladies intent on giving us "food with an attitude." They tried in vein to sell us really good looking sandwiches... but were happy to whip up a couple of malted milk shakes instead. I must return there soon...

Having completed that mission, we motored on; sweeping south through the valley towards County Rd 274/569. This patchy, blacktop road has many names; carries you over the Continental Divide without announcing it, and eventually ends at the Big Hole River and Hwy 43. Its a short road and has plenty to offer; abundant pullouts, fabulous scenery, and light traffic. We stop for a short break...

Embracing the Big Sky on County Rd 569

Always up for trying something new... Giardia Lamblia anyone?

Where are we, Kyle?

hmmm... uhh... let's see here... ummm

Beats me....

Mule Ranch and the Anaconda Range

Our favorite spot along this route was the Mule Ranch. It's hard not to admire the old homestead with the beautiful mountain backdrop. Joel has a spot picked out for his cabin. Both of us didn't want to leave this site but we had to get going... we had a ghost town to find.

Our goal was to reach the old mining town of Coolidge, which is nestled high in the Pioneer Mountains. From Wise River, MT we took FS 73 which is a nicely paved road along the Wise River and dissects the Pioneer range in half. We anticipated camping along this route and kept our eyes open for a site along the way. After 25 miles, a gravel road heading east led us to the town. Upon our arrival we were greeted by the local welcoming committee... swarms of Montana mosquitos impervious to bug spray. Knowing that I'm a very attractive man... to mosquitos at least, I keep my riding gear on. Joel, however, braves the swarms and goes in his t-shirt.

Coolidge Ghost Town

Its hard to believe that Coolidge was a thriving town with telephone and electrical service, even a school system that lasted into the 1930's; no evidence of any kind would have clued me to that fact. I was disappointed to know that the old mill was sold off to an Oregon Company for its distressed wood. Old wood seems to go for big money in the crafts industry.

Whatcha cookin?

It took about an hour to see the town and by then we were rightly tired of the pesky insects hell-bent on sucking our veins dry. On the way down to the main road we passed a beautiful camping spot overlooking a marsh. This would have been a prime site to spot Moose, but fearing more mosquitos we chose a site closer to the fast moving Wise River.

Building a crappy fire

Occupying our site above the river, we soon realized the mosquitos were a continuing nuisance, quickly constructed our tents and set to building a fire to help keep our irritating friends at bay. I gathered what small amounts of firewood I could find, but Joel found a pile of poop; horse poop, cow poop, even elk poop. Having read about nomads using poop to burn, I agreed with his plan to get a smoldering, smoky, anti-mosquito fire going.

finally some relief

The fire helped to abate the aggravating insects. We sat down to have dinner and toasted Clint Eastwood with swig of whisky. Joel walked over to take look at the river while I toasted Steve McQueen.
"What was that?!"
"What?" I replied.
"I saw something in the bushes... I think it was a bear!" Alarmed, he grabs a pistol. "Do you see 'em?"
"Nope.." with my camera at the ready. "Did he have pointy ears or round ears?"
"I don't know" he said, "didn't get a good look. Why?"
"If it has small round ears we may have problems...."

Out of the bushes near the river came a small, skinny cinnamon colored Black Bear looking for a meal and walking straight at us.
"Shouldn't we make some noise?" Joel asked.
"Yep, I guess we should.."
Clapping our hands and yelling startled the little fella and he trotted off in the opposite direction.
"Great, now I won't be able to sleep"
"No worries.." I said. "at least it wasn't a Grizzly."

Hey BooBoo... I smell a picnic basket!

The temperture dropped to the forties driving the "skeeters" into hiding and making good sleeping weather. We retired to our tents for some much needed rest to be ready for tomorrows ride. Lets hope the bear doesn't come back...