Wednesday, August 17, 2011

A New Friend, Glacier Park and a Monkey Butt Ride

Many weeks ago a motorcyclist contacted me through Horizons Unlimited, a website designed for world motorcycle travelers. Sasan was looking for cheap accomodations and general help on his long haul from Tampa, Florida to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. I agreed to help and offered up my shop to conduct any repairs he needed and to put him up for the night as I have a comfy couch.

When he arrived, we picked up some fresh oil and fluids for his R100GS/PD and got a snack from Wheat Montana Farms. Once the fluids were changed and he caught up on emails, we headed to the Marysville House Steakhouse and Saloon for a truly unique Montana experience. After a great steak dinner and a short ride to the Continental Divide, we headed back to the house for some much needed rest before a long ride to Glacier Park and beyond the next day.

The Rocky Mountain Front near Augusta, MT
The morning started off cool, in fact a little too cool for my Florida friend as he quickly had to dig into his Alaska clothing. The mid fifties is unseasonably cool for early August so I didn't blame him a bit for feeling chilly, I thought it felt great however.
Fields of Wheat near Dupuyer, MT
Our route, US 287 and US 89, is the most direct route from Helena to the east side of Glacier Park through Wolf Creek, Augusta, Choteau, and Browning. It's a route of contrasts, with rolling grasslands to the east and towering peaks of the Rocky Mountain Front to the west; one of my favorite routes in all Montana.
St Mary, MT
By the time we made it to St. Mary, the eastern terminus of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, it was 1pm and we were ready for lunch. The St Mary Lodge was jam packed with tourists, especially motorcyclists; it was if there were a motorcycle rally in Glacier Park! (not a bad idea actually). After a quick bite to eat, Sasan was on his way to the Piegan Border Crossing, Calgary and beyond. Though I was feeling very envious of his adventure to the Great White North and would rather have joined the expedition, I turned back towards Helena. Should I retrace my steps or turn to enter the park?
East Entrance to Glacier Park
Well, being this close to my favorite place in Montana, not venturing across the Going-to-the-Sun to West Glacier was out of the question. Knowing this would extend my trip by two hours, I proceeded through the gate and slowly made my way up to Logan Pass.
Going-to-the-Sun Road
Due to the large amounts of snow and the late winter, the parks lakes and waterfalls were full of mountain run-off; the forests greener than I'd seen in ten years. However, the construction crews also got a late start and this year the congestion along the GttS Road seemed to be the worst I'd seen. What usually takes 2 hours with photo stops took 3.5 hours this time.

Mt. Reynolds
Frustrated and hot, I reached Apgar Village ready to put some miles behind me. Helena is at least a four hour ride from West Glacier and riding through the Seeley-Swan Valley is a long, dangerous stretch of highway; not the best when tired. Near Big Fork I pulled over to have an ice cream cone and a Red Bull (doesnt sound appealing, but it hit the spot) and begun my long evening ride. I tucked behind a large SUV that was part of a long line of cars. Somehow I feel safer surrounded by vehicles going through the Seeley-Swan; theory being the larger autos scare wildlife from wandering onto the road. 80 miles later I emerge from the valley unscathed and seeing very few deer. Maybe my theory works...

Dusk is upon me as I pass through Ovando and must change my smoked faceshield to clear. It's Monday night and there is hardly a soul on Hwy 141; I passed only one car in 40 miles. The closer I got to McDonald Pass the more I wanted the days ride to end, but caution is needed this close to home. The decent into the Helena Valley is a wonderful series of sweeping curves, perfect for two-wheeled scoots. Though my 1200GS is a dual purpose touring bike, it handles like a sportbike; sure footed and true. I breathe a sigh of relief that the 14 hour, 465 mile day is over as I cross the city limits and pull into my drive. I thought of my new friend and wondered if he had made it to Calgary safely, dreaming that someday I can take the trip.

Motorcycling is a wonderful sport and the community of riders that accompany are just as wonderful. Through the power of the internet, we can make new friends and share adventures and I'm glad to have been a small part of Sasan's. I look forward to meeting more new friends along backroads of Montana and maybe someday the backroads of the world.

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